Planning to Visit Shetland? Here’s All You Need to Know

Shetland is an amazing place to visit. It is very different from the rest of Scotland. In fact, every time I take a group there, I welcome them to Shetland which I describe as “not like Scotland.”

What Makes Shetland Unique?

Shetland has its own very distinct:

• Culture
• Language
• Food
• Landscape
• History

Things to See and Enjoy

There is a great deal to see and enjoy when visiting Shetland.

Check out this guide to help you plan your visit to Shetland, including:

• Ideas of things to do
• How to get there
• How to get around

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Flying to Shetland

There are direct flights to Shetland from the following cities:

• Aberdeen
• Kirkwall (Orkney)
• Dundee
• Glasgow
• London (London City)

Note: From May 2023, there will be flights connecting Sumburgh and Heathrow.

Airline Information

These flights are operated by Loganair. Loganair also operates codeshare flights with British Airways.

Arrival at Sumburgh Airport

All flights arrive at Sumburgh Airport, located at the southern end of the mainland.

Plane Details

Loganair uses smaller aircraft for these flights. Here are some features of the planes:

• The seating arrangement is 2 x 2.
• Some seats face backward at the front (these are emergency exit row seats).

Due to the smaller size of the planes, the lockers are also smaller. Depending on the size of your luggage, it may need to go into the hold.

In-Flight Service

During the flight, you will generally receive:

• Tea or coffee
• Water
• A shortbread or Tunnocks caramel bar

The planes are usually propeller planes.

Check Flights to Shetland

Why not check flights to Shetland on Kayak.com?

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The handy colour-coded calendar helps you find the best prices super quick.

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Sumburgh Airport

Sumburgh Airport has two runways.

Dramatic Arrivals

The approach from the South via the lighthouse makes for a dramatic arrival. The airplane must drop down quickly once it is past the lighthouse.

Runway Crossings

When approaching from the East or West, the runway is crossed by the main road. Local traffic is stopped by barriers when planes are landing or taking off.

Busy Airport Traffic

Sumburgh is a busy airport. Most flights each day come from Aberdeen. These flights mainly carry workers going to the oil rigs. They transfer to helicopters at Sumburgh and then fly to the oil rigs.

Unique Helicopter Operations

Sumburgh is the only airport in the UK where helicopters take off and land on the runway rather than a helipad. This always makes for an interesting view.

Arrival Experience

Upon arrival at Sumburgh Airport, you will head into the main airport building. There is one small luggage carousel.

Airport Amenities

Next to the carousel, you will find:

• A car hire desk
• Toilets

Additionally, there is a regular bus service that connects Sumburgh Airport with Lerwick.

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Taking the Ferry to Shetland

A cheaper way to travel to Shetland is to take the Northlink ferry from Aberdeen or Orkney.

Journey Details

• The journey from Aberdeen is an overnight sailing.
• Depending on the day, the ferry leaves Aberdeen at:
  • 17:00
  • 19:00
• It sails to Orkney and leaves Orkney at 23:45, arriving in Lerwick at 7:30 AM.

Check out the current Northlink timetable.

Fares and Booking

Foot passenger fares start at £17 per person. Cabin prices start from £124 (per cabin, not per person), and vehicle costs are around £60 each. The prices vary depending on the season. These prices are from Aberdeen to Lerwick.

Find the current Northlink fares here.

Important Booking Tips

There is a lack of capacity on the ferries, so booking well in advance is recommended, especially if you want to have a cabin overnight.

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Shetland Weather!

Weather plays a huge part in everyone’s life in Shetland. So, expect to talk about and hear about the weather quite a lot!

Climate Overview

Shetland has a slightly milder climate than you might expect for somewhere at the same latitude as St. Petersburg. This is due to the Gulf Stream influence, which warms Shetland. As a result, it generally doesn’t freeze in winter, but it also doesn’t get very hot in summer.

Wind Conditions

Shetland experiences a great deal of wind. This can range from:

• Gentle breezes
• Moderate winds
• Really strong winds

The unofficial record for the strongest wind was over 190 miles per hour. It is unofficial because the wind was so strong it blew the measuring equipment away.

Changeable Weather

The weather in Shetland can be extremely changeable. While in the Highlands, we often have four seasons in one day, Shetland can experience four seasons in one hour!

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Where To Stay

Shetland Hotel

The Shetland Hotel is located right opposite the ferry terminal. This is where the Aberdeen ferry arrives and departs. It is at the northern end of the town.

• Parking on site is available if you are bringing your car.

Lerwick Hotel

The Lerwick Hotel is the sister hotel to the Shetland Hotel. It is at the southern end of the town.

• No parking is available at the hotel, but street parking is nearby.

Accommodation in Brae

If you want to head out to the west, there are several accommodation options in Brae.

Busta House Hotel

My favorite hotel in Shetland is the Busta House Hotel. This hotel is full of history and features:

• Individually styled rooms
• Some of the oldest trees in Shetland

Brae Hotel

The Brae Hotel is less historic but is handily located in the center of the village.

St Magnus Hotel

If you want to get even further west, consider the St Magnus Hotel in Hillswick. From the hotel, you can:

• Easily walk to the beach
• Visit the local wildlife sanctuary too.

Lerwick Shetland

Lerwick

Lerwick is the capital of Shetland. About 50% of the Shetland population, which totals around 23,000, lives near Lerwick.

A Brief History

The name Lerwick translates to “muddy bay.” The town started to develop as a trading post for Dutch fishing boats that came to catch herring.

Commercial Street: The Main Hub

Lerwick has one main street: Commercial Street. This curving street used to follow the shoreline before the town expanded. Today, it has a friendly and quaint atmosphere. You won’t find big chains here; instead, the focus is on local shops.

Local Shopping Highlights

You can find many interesting shops, such as:

• Wool shops
• An independent bookshop
• Banks and cashpoints
• A post office
• Several cafes
• Jewellery and gift shops
• Shoe shops
• A chemist (Boots)
• A camera shop
• A music shop
• Harry’s, which sells a bit of everything

It’s a pleasant place to take a stroll and browse.

Must-Visit Spots in Lerwick

• The Shetland Times Bookshop: A fantastic independent bookshop with a lovely collection of curated books. They have a wide range of books about Shetland too.
• Jamiesons Wool Shop: Known for its creative window displays. If you’re interested in wool, this is the place to visit!
• Tourist Information Centre: Recognizable from the TV series Shetland, this centre offers helpful staff, lots of information, and free maps. It’s also the only place I found Up Hellya T-shirts for sale. (The Scottish Government have sold off all the Tourist Information Centres so just waiting to see what happens in Shetland – hopefully it will be locally run)
• Fort Charlotte: Explore the battlements and view the guns. You get a fantastic view of Bressay and Lerwick from here. Fort Charlotte is still used as an army barracks today and is a listed monument.

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Bressay

A ferry runs between Lerwick and Bressay regularly throughout the day. It takes around 7 minutes to cross. The ferry takes cars and foot passengers.

You can find the timetable here. There is no need to book the ferry.

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Sumburgh Head Lighthouse

Sumburgh Head is a lovely spot to visit.

Getting There

You need to park at the bottom of the hill and walk up to the lighthouse. Along the walk, you will pass by nesting seabirds, including puffins during their breeding months.

Visitor Centre

The lighthouse has an interesting visitor centre. It shares:

• The history of the lighthouse
• Information about the marine life of the area

Scenic Views

On clear days, you can see across to Fair Isle.

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Jarlshof

Jarlshof is an incredible archaeological site that offers a glimpse into the past. In just one hour, you can explore:

• Remains of houses from 4,000 years ago
• A 17th Century tower
• The development of housing styles through time, including wheelhouses and a broch

Highlights of Your Visit

During your visit, you’ll encounter fascinating features, such as:

• The midden, a pile of discarded shells from seafood eaten by previous inhabitants
• The stones used to grind flour

You can walk into and around all the buildings and remains, giving you a real sense of history.

Guided Experience

There is a great audio guide available that explains the history in detail. It provides additional content to help you understand what life was like for the people who lived at this site over the years.

Visiting Information

Jarlshof is open every day from 9 am to 5:30 pm from April 1st to September 30th. Please note that it closes for lunch from 12 noon to 1 pm.

Watch the Site from Above

Check out this great video of Jarlshof from above, which offers stunning views of the site and shows how the buildings would have looked.

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Sandwick and Hoswick

If you have time, take a little diversion off the main road to Sandwick and Hoswick.

Visit the Hoswick Visitor Centre

The Hoswick Visitor Centre is a wonderful spot. Here, you will find:

• Clean toilets
• A little shop
• A museum
• A lovely cafe run by local people

Local Craft Producers

In the village, there are a couple of craft producers, including a jeweller.

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Scalloway

Scalloway used to be the capital of Shetland. Now, it is a busy fishing port with a large fish market. Make sure to visit the Scalloway Museum if you get the chance. This museum features:

• A great exhibition on local history
• A huge display on the Shetland Bus

The Shetland Bus

The Shetland Bus was a secret operation during World War II. It started after Norway became occupied by the Germans. Fishing boats were disguised and used to smuggle:

• Weapons
• Undercover agents into Norway

These agents were volunteers from the Norwegian Army. They had retrained in sabotage and other skills in Shetland.

Memorial to the Volunteers

There is also a lovely, albeit very small, memorial to the volunteers who died during this operation.

Dining at The Cornerstone Cafe

If you want a bite to eat while you are in Scalloway, The Cornerstone Cafe is a great spot. The service is always friendly, and they are very prompt with the food. This is great if you are traveling elsewhere.

You might like this video about the Shetland Bus.

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The Original Cake Fridge

If you are heading out to the West or North, make sure to stop by the Original Cake Fridge at Burrafirth.

24/7 Cake Access

At the Original Cake Fridge, you will find fridges set beside the road. These fridges are stocked and available 24 hours a day. Yes, you can access cake any time in Shetland?what a genius idea!

Treats for Everyone

There is always a range of lovely cakes available, along with:

• A hot drinks machine
• Snacks for children
• Souvenirs

Cafe and Pygmy Goats

Behind the fridges is a cafe with a small gift shop and outdoor heating. A new addition to the grounds is a group of gorgeous pygmy goats that you can see while you enjoy your visit.

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Brae

Brae is the largest settlement on the Western side of Shetland. It serves as a great base for those looking to explore the West and North Coast.

Amenities in Brae

Brae offers several important facilities:

• A secondary school
• A leisure centre
• A small selection of shops

Accommodation

The main place to stay is the Brae Hotel, located beside the main road.

Local Shopping

You can find a Co-operative shop in Brae, which also serves as a local post office.

Dining in Brae

One popular spot is Frankies Fish and Chips. This is the most northern fish and chip shop in the UK. They offer local mussels harvested from nearby waters.

When you visit, be sure to check out the sign beside the car park. It shows the distances to large cities around the world, making it a great photo opportunity!

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Eshaness

Eshaness is a fantastic coastline on the west side of Shetland. The cliffs are wonderfully high and dramatic, especially when it is windy and the sea crashes against the rocks.

Geological Wonders

The area is geologically fascinating. Here, you can see:

• Volcano vents
• A cut-through view of an old volcano

Historical Sites

As you walk along the clifftops, you can explore the remains of old mills and a broch. Don’t forget to visit the lighthouse for stunning views.

Visit Braewick Cafe

If you go to Eshaness, make sure to stop by the Braewick Cafe. It offers:

• Fantastic views across The Drongs, a series of sea stacks
• Great food

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Sullom Voe

Sullom Voe is a huge oil and gas terminal that once produced 70% of the oil for the whole of the UK. Its impact on Shetland and the economy was significant. Today, it remains very important, although not on the same scale.

Explore the Area

If you get a chance, just drive out to see the area. There is a lot of military history here, including:

• The disused Scatsta Airfield
• Old war buildings, some of which are now houses

You will also notice a great deal of oil and gas infrastructure. You can see some of it from the local roads. Unfortunately, you can’t go into the site itself for security reasons.

Visit the Museum in Lerwick

If you are in the museum in Lerwick, check out the film on the second floor. This film, produced by BP, gives a great overview of the entire Sullom Voe site.

Additional Resources

You might also like this film. It features locals talking about Sullom Voe and includes some parts of the BP film.

Check out this great promotional video by Kate Humble about Shetland!

Visit Shetland Conclusion

Shetland is a fantastic place to visit. It requires a bit of planning but is well worth the effort. For a wonderful holiday filled with wildlife, sea views, and more, plan a visit to Shetland.

When to Visit

Shetland is wonderful to visit any time of the year. Being flexible with plans to work around any weather is the best approach.

Exploring the Islands

It is easy to visit several islands during your stay in Shetland thanks to the ferries.

Booking Your Stay

Demand for travel to and accommodation in Shetland is always high. You need to book at least 3 but ideally 6 months in advance.

You Might Also Like

If you have found my Visit Shetland guide useful you might also like;

• Is Shetland Worth Visiting? – yes it is but here are some things you need to know
• Hotels in Shetland – 6 hotels reviewed with a quick hotel finder
• Busta House Hotel – 10 reasons to stay at this historic hotel
• Lerwick Hotel – review of the Lerwick Hotel
• 26 Things to Do in Shetland – ideas of places to visit and things to do

You can find more information on my Travel Inspiration page

Further Reading